But it’s worth also making time for the Museo Correr (museiciviciveneziani.it; April-October, 10am-7pm daily; November-March, 10am-5pm daily; €12/€13 with combined San Marco Museums ticket), a collection of art and artefacts charting the Serene Republic’s rise and fall.
Another essential stop-off is the Torre dell’Orologio (848 082000; museiciviciveneziani.it; guided visits Mon-Wed, 10am and 11am; Thur-Sun, 2pm and 3pm; €12. Book), where you can observe the workings of the elaborate clock that still marks the hours in the piazza.
St Mark’s Basilica
Resplendent at the eastern end of the piazza, St Mark’s basilica resembles nothing else in Christendom – from its four great bulbous domes outside to its one-and-a-half square miles of glimmering golden mosaics covering the splendid interior.
Go for 6.45am mass if you want to see it without the crowds and don’t forget the upstairs loggia where the originals of the four Graeco-Roman bronze horses that face the square prance elegantly in a museum (€4). Piazza San Marco (041 270 8311; basilicasanmarco.it; Mon-Sat, 9.45am-5pm; Sun, 2-4pm. Free admission to main church; varying charges for special sections inside).
Doge’s Palace
Venice’s doges (dukes) were elected from among their aristocratic peers, after which their whole lives were subsumed by the state. Venice was all about shimmering exteriors concealing hard-nosed commercial or administrative activity, and the mainly 15th-century Doge’s palace mirrors this perfectly: beyond immense meeting halls and formal reception rooms with acres of canvases by Tintoretto and Veronese lie narrow chambers in which city scribes and bureaucrats beavered away in cramped darkness.
Piazza San Marco (042 271 5911; museiciviciveneziani.it). Open April-October, 8.30am-6.30pm daily; November-March, 8.30am-5.30pm daily. €12/€13 with combined San Marco Museums ticket.
Gallerie dell’Accademia
A slow-moving refurbishment means that scaffolding and room closures can hamper visitors’ progress. but don’t be deterred: even a tiny fraction of what the Accademia contains is enough to satisfy the most demanding art lover: Titian’s last painting, La Pietà, and his Presentation of the Virgin; Veronese’s Feast in the House of Levi; Giorgione’s mysterious The Tempest; numerous works by Giovanni Bellini. Dorsoduro 1050, Campo della Carità (041 522 2247; gallerieaccademia.it). Open Mon, 8.15-2pm; Tue-Sun, 8.15am-7.15pm. Full-price admission €6.50.
Ca d’Oro
The flamboyant Gothic flourishes and trills of this 15th-century Grand Canal palazzo somehow distill the essence of Venice. The interior, where the art collection assembled by a former owner, Baron Franchetti, is displayed, has two highlights: Mantegna’s visionary St Sebastian, and the view of the Grand Canal from the first-floor balcony.
Cannaregio 3932, Calle Ca d’Oro (041 523 8790). Open Mon, 8.15am-2pm; Tue-Sun, 8.15am-7.15pm. Full-price admission €5.
Murano
It is fascinating to see glass being blown and fashioned into vases, glasses and baubles in the various workshops on Venice’s historic glass island, but be aware that any Murano excursion offered “free” by your hotel concierege comes with serious pressure to buy at inflated prices. make your own way there (it’s 10 minutes from Fondamente Nove by waterbus) and shop around.
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
Everyone’s favourite eccentric art collector, the redoubtable Peggy assembled a remarkable yet still intensely personal portofolio of modernist and surrealist art, including major works by Picasso, Magritte, Max Ernst (her husband for a while), Giacometti and Jackson Pollock. Peggy’s 18th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal was never finished by the Venetian family that commissioned it. The gardens are lovely, the museum shop is the best in Venice, and the bar/cafè makes a good lunch or tea stop. Dorsoduro 864, Fondamenta Venier dei Leoni (041 520 6288; guggenheim-venice.it). Open 10am-6pm, closed Tue. €12.
I Frari
If you visit only one Venetian church aside from St Mark’s, make it this penumbral, echoing Gothic edifice, a 15-minute walk west of the Rialto. its artistic treasures include two magnificent early Titians: The Assumption of the Virgin over the high altar, and the Madonna di Ca’ Pesaro in the left aisle. San Polo, Campo dei Frari (041 522 2637; chorusvenezia.org). Open Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm; Sun, 1pm-6pm. €3.
Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana
These two historic containers – the first an 18th-century Grand Canal palazzo that once belonged to Fiat, the second Venice’s old customs house – together contain the contemporary art collection of a French billionaire, François Pinault, head of the lifestyle corporation LVMH. in Palazzo Grassi, selected works are displayed in a series of long-running themed exhibitions, while Punta della Dogana – whose radical interior was entirely refitted by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando – houses the works of a roster of contemporary heavyweights, from Jeff Koons to Damien Hirst.
Palazzo Grassi: San Marco 3231, Campo San Samuele. Punta della Dogana: Dorsoduro 2, Campo della Salute. Both venues (041 523 1680; palazzograssi.it). Open 10am-7pm, closed Tue. Full-price admission €15 for one venue, €20 for both.
Day trips
Burano and Torcello
These two islands in the northern lagoon are well worth finding time for. Burano is the fishermen’s and lacemakers’ island, famous for its gaily coloured houses. its next-door neighbour, Torcello, is now a charmingly rural place, but in the Middle Ages it was the most populous island on the lagoon; two handsome 11th-century churches bear witness to these glory days (visit between 10am and 4pm). Take the LN waterbus from Fondamente Nove (35 minutes to Burano takes 35 minutes; change here for the five-minute hop across to Torcello).
Padua
It may not be quite as popular as Verona as a mainland daytrip venue, but historic Padua is closer – about 30 minutes by train from Venezia Santa Lucia – and just as rewarding. The main draw is the Scrovegni Chapel at Piazza Eremitani 8 (049 820 4551; cappelladegliscrovegni.it; open Mon, 9am-7pm; Tue-Sun, 9am-10pm; €12, booking required), a plain Gothic church whose interior contains one of the miracles of Western art – Giotto’s early 14th-century Biblical fresco cycle. but the rest of the ancient university city is worth exploring too. turismopadova.it
Seasonal guide
Winter comes to an exuberant end today as Carnevale (carnevale.venezia.it) swings into life. this year’s theme is Venice: City of Women. Only if you booked months ahead will you have secured a ticket for the extraordinary Cavalchina ball at the Fenice on March 5 – but there’s always next year.
Until the Palazzo Grassi and the Punta della Dogana open their new exhibitions in April and June, while away the time at the Guggenheim, where a show about the Vorticists – the UK and US offshoot of Futurism – will include 100 works by artist such as Wyndham Lewis, Jacob Epstein and Henri Gaudier-Brzeska. Runs until may 15.
With Italy celebrating its 150th anniversary as a unified country, the 2011 season at La Fenice opera house has a patriotic feel to it, with classic operas by Verdi, Puccini and Donizetti. this year, La Fenice will stage no fewer than 12 operas, three ballets and 14 symphonies. Guest conductors include John Eliot Gardner and John Axelrod. San Marco 1983, Campo San Fantin (00 39 041 2424, teatrolafenice.it)
Telegraph tip: Don’t underestimate the amount of walking that you will be doing: the waterbuses serve only the Grand Canal, Cannaregio Canal and points around the “edge” of island Venice . Wear comfortable shoes or trainers, and if you are travelling with small children, consider swapping that pushchair for a baby backpack. but look on the bright side: a stay in Venice can be a very pleasant way to keep fit.
SHOPPING
You will find branches of all the usual high-street and designer fashion brands – mostly clustered between Rialto and San Marco, or along Calle XXV Aprile just to the west of Piazza San Marco. if you want to take back something specifically Venetian, glass, masks, silk and velvet fabrics or high-quality paper are the best options – though much of what you see in souvenir shops is of course neither handmade nor Venetian.
Although Murano is the glass island, for quirky handmade glass you will do just as well in Venice itself. Vittorio Costantini’s detailed, delicate lampwork animals, fish and insects make good gifts (Cannaregio 5311, Calle del Fumo; 041 522 2265; vittoriocostantini.com); the sisters Marina and Susanna sent (Dorsoduro 669, Campo San Vio; 041 520 8136; marinaesusannasent.com) produce striking contemporary jewellery in glass and other materials; while Attombri (San Polo 74, Sottoportego degli Orafi; 041 521 2524, attombri.com) makes inventive necklaces, earrings, bracelets and brooches out of antique glass beads.
For masks, head for a reputable outlet such as Ca’ Macana (Dorsoduro 3172, Calle delle Botteghe; 041 520 3229, camacana.com) or Tragicomica (San Polo 2800, Calle dei Nomboli; 041 721 102; tragicomica.it). The silk brocades and damasks woven on 18th-century looms at the venerable textile house Bevilacqua (San Marco 337b, Ponte della Canonica; 041 528 7581; bevilacquatessuti.com) decorate both the White House and the Kremlin, while Emma Gaggio’s handprinted silk velvets are hugely desirable – and hugely expensive (San Marco 3444, Calle delle Botteghe; 041 522 8574; gaggio.it).
For something a little different, head for the mosaic workshop Orsoni (Cannaregio 1045, Sottoportego dei Vedei; 041 244 0002; orsoni.com). Even if you are not planning to line your bathroom with Byzantine gold micro-mosaics, it’s well worth trying to rustle up a few people (the Orsonis will only show booked groups around, charging €10 per person) for a tour of their historic atelier in the Ghetto, where coloured glass sheets are turned into mosaic tesserae using techniques that have changed little since the Middle Ages.
- Anne Hanley has lived in Italy for over 25 years, first in Rome and now in Umbria, where she spends much of her time designing gardens (laverzura.com). She also edits the Time Out Guides to Venice and Rome
murano Sommerso Art Glass
3pm, bronze horses, domes, euro 4, loggia, sun 2pm