Each “half” of the crankshaft assembly is pressed onto the CrankPin/Rod Journal.
To DIS-Assemble requires a Hydraulic Press and Specifically sized & shaped Support Plates to hold the crank as it’s pressed apart.
1st,,,It’s split apart into the 2 halves2nd,,the Crank Pin which the Piston Rod & Bearing runs on is always left in 1 side of the Crankshaft—-So IT gets pressed out of it’s crankshaft half.
3rd,,,After cleaning and inspection,, a New Crank Pin is Pressed into ONE half of the crank.—A New Rod and Bearing and Thrust Washers are installed onto the Crank Pin.— then the other half of the Crank is put into position and Pressed onto the CrankPin
4th,,,the Entire assembly is then “Trued”,,aligned so that the 2 Mainshafts stickin’ out the side of the Crankshaft are straight and even,,,,and act as one single,continuous straight shaft when measured for run-out with precision instruments.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .the above procedure is only a VERY BASIC simplification of the procedure. . . . just a general overview.
Crankshaft Rebuilding is considered a “Specialty Operation,,,,it demands specific skills,,,,and Certain Tools,Instruments / Facilities which are FAR beyond what’s typical of a “Mechanic’s Tool Box”.
It also really requires both Experience,,,and a “Knack” for doing it.A Certain Touch which cannot be written or explained in an instruction manual.
Even some people who DO rebuild crankshafts,,,,Really CAN’T.no worth a phooey,anyway.They can get them apart,,,they can get the new parts in place,,,and get the crank back together.They can often get the crank back to running true enough.But there’s simply More to it than that,,,to get a reliable,durable crankshaft.
Your Best Bet is to find a reputable shop who will warrant their work,, and Pay the Man.or,,buy an entire new crankshaft–which is expensive.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .I’m ’bout the Last person to Discourage a Do-It-Yourselfer.I’m not even particularly shy about encouraging someone to TRY,,,even when they really probably SHOULDNT,,,,IF they really Want to.
But on Cylinder boring,,Cranshaft Rebuilds,,Extensive Head & Valve work on 4Strokes,,,things like that,,,It’s far better & easier to have it Proffesionally done by a reputable source.
The GOOD NEWS is that it’s not very expensive to have a good shop rebuild the crank for you.should be under $50 labor,and all-total with parts should be under $100.about half the price of a New Crank
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Here’s a Picture,,,Parts Diagram so ya can get an idea how things go
images. powersportsnetwork. com/fiche/images/Suzuki/1982/Scooters/2073_4. gif
REF# PART #REQ YOUR PRICE
1-1 PISTON12110-43000 1 $27. 27
1-2 PISTON SET (OS:0. 5)12100-35611-050 (replaces 12110-43000-050) 1 $41. 28
1-3 PISTON SET (OS:1. 0)12100-35611-100 (replaces 12110-43000-100) 1 $41. 28
2-1 RING SET, PISTON (STD)12140-16B10 (replaces 12140-43000) 1 $12. 42
2-2 RING SET, PISTON (OS:0. 5)12140-46110-050 1 $12. 85
2-3 RING SET, PISTON (OS:1. 0)12140-46110-100 1 $12. 85
3 PIN, PISTON12151-04700 1 $4. 98
4 CIRCLIP09381-12001 2 $0. 90
5 BEARING (12X16X15. 09263-12023 (replaces 09263-12020) 1 $6. 94
6 CRANKSHAFT ASSY12200-02201 (replaces 12200-02200) 1 $144. 31
7 . ROD, CONNECTING12161-04001 1 $34. 54
8 . PIN,CRANK12211-02300 1 $8. 10
9 . BEARING09263-15014 1 $6. 51
12 . SPACER,LH09180-20021 1 $5. 28
13 OIL SEAL, RH09283-20034 1 $3. 40
14 OIL SEAL,LH09283-26015 1 $4. 08
15 BEARING, COUNTER SHAFT RH09262-20069 (replaces 09262-20062) 2 $12. 74
16 . BEARING09262-12001 1 $10. 10