Right Bank
1 Hôtel Londres Saint-Honoré from £92
Such a pleasingly quiet little street, yet only a stroll from the heart of culture- vulture land: the Louvre, Opéra, Grand and Petit Palais. This hotel is also full of character: loads of half-timber detailing, an ancient squiggly staircase, bits of statuary here and there and a charming first-floor salon. Pleasant and uncluttered rooms, with decent bathrooms, vary in size according to the price you pay. Lovely staff, too. Breakfast is £7.95. Details 13 Rue Saint Roch, 1st; 00 33 1 42 60 15 62, hotellondressthonore-paris.com (Métro: Tuileries).
2 Hôtel Chopin from £81
Pure time-warp stuff. Hôtel Chopin feels like stepping into an old Maigret episode. Pootle along the 19th-century Passage Jouffroy with its glittery shops selling sweetmeats and old wooden toys and there it stands. Chopin was created when the arcade was built and elegance, now charmingly faded, is the theme. The reception is like an old-fashioned parlour; bedrooms are simpler yet all have good bathrooms and decent firm mattresses. Breakfast is £6.20. Details 10 Boulevard Montmartre, (46 Passage Jouffroy), 9th; 00 33 1 47 70 58 10, hotelbretonnerie.com (Métro: Grand Boulevards).
3 Hôtel Royal Opéra from £93
In another quiet back street off the Grands Boulevards, friendly Royal Opéra has 30 well-maintained bedrooms with unobtrusive pastel furnishings and attractive bathrooms. Some of the best doubles feature ancient wood-beamed ceilings. Room 45 is a particularly tranquil back bedroom with a larger-than-average bed and patch-patterned drapes. The bright breakfast room faces the narrow Rue de Castellane. Breakfast is £4.41. Details 5 Rue de Castellane, 8th; 00 33 1 42 66 14 44, paris-hotels-opera.com (Métro: Madeleine).
4 Hôtel Jules from £99
It would be easy to walk straight past the blue sign bearing the single word “Jules” on the Rue La Fayette. Until, that is, you notice the stuffed peacock in the window, through which you can see a funky bar with brightly coloured liquids in a variety of decanters. The hotel door opens on to a world of style — huge round ceiling lights, a white leather banquette and a black-and-white patterned carpet — and you realise that this is not a place to walk past. The Jules, which opened last year, is the hotel designer and operator Grace Leo-Andrieu’s first departure from luxury properties. In the 9th arrondissement, not far from the Gare du Nord, Galeries Lafayette and the brasserie Bouillon Chartier, the Jules has replicated the area’s bohemian chic. A pile of library books stands by the space-pod computer desk and there is an explosion of colours in the diner-style breakfast room in the basement. Bedrooms have Seventies-style bedside lamps and desks from the Fifties. Travel trunks double as minibars, and mirrors are framed in shiny black leather (“like a Hermès bag — I spent months developing them”). “We’re not trying to take ourselves too seriously or to be too designer-like, but to make people feel comfortable,” Leo-Andrieu says. Details Hôtel Jules, 49-51 Rue La Fayette, 9th; 00 33 1 42 85 05 44, hoteljules.com (Métro: Le Peletier). Jane Knight
5 Historic house from £82
Alcôve & Agapes is a French website that lists charming, quirky B&Bs with a true Parisian flavour. One example is the beautiful mansion belonging to Laurence and Christophe, which was built in 1890, and was once the home of a society courtesan. They let just two bedrooms, each on separate floors, and there are two dining rooms, a huge living room and a garden, so you can enjoy perfect peace and privacy in a grand, historic building that would be the envy of any five-star hotel. Breakfasts are generous. Details E-mail Alcôve & Agapes via the website (bed-and-breakfast-in-paris.com), quoting ref BB271, or ring weekdays between 10am and noon (00 33 1 44 85 06 05). (Métro: Blanche; Place de Clichy)
6 Hôtel Ermitage from £88.35
The highest hotel in Paris. This delightfully old-fashioned 12-bedroom townhouse is in the northern part of Montmartre — just behind Sacré Coeur. The tiny, vibrant owner, Maggie, is justifiably proud of the hotel’s charming country-house interior and dreamy back garden. No 11 overlooks the garden; No 5 has great views over Paris and is ideal for romantics. Breakfast included. Cash or traveller’s cheques only. Details 24 Rue Lamarck, 18th; 00 33 1 42 64 79 22, ermitagesacrecoeur.fr (Métro: Lamarck Caulaincourt).
7 Hôtel des Arts from £83
The cobbled Rue Tholozé, off café-rich Rue Lepic, brings you to this smart and sizeable hotel, pleasantly decorated, with Provençal-style furniture. The tiny bar off the reception area features a working Wurlitzer jukebox, works by local artists adorn the walls and some of the bedrooms have baths. Breakfast is £8.80. The basement stone-wall breakfast room serves generous buffets and on nearby Rue Joseph de Maistre, Le Relais Gascon offers reliable and affordable set menus. Details 5 Rue Tholozé, 18th; 00 33 1 46 06 30 52, arts-hotel-paris.com (Métro: Abbesses).
8 Hôtel Eldorado from £64.50
The name says it all. This hippy-feel hangout is decorated with fleamarket finds in its funky reception area and throughout the 33 rooms — Eastern rugs, sundial mirrors, pierced metal lampshades and hot blues and purples. The dilapidated air, crooked wooden steps and peeling paint may not suit some, but it all adds to the character. Smaller rooms share bathrooms. Breakfast is £7.95. Details 18 Rue des Dames, 17th; 00 33 1 45 22 35 21, eldoradohotel.fr (Métro: Place de Clichy).
9 Studio, Buttes-Chaumont from £62
Beat the killer hotel bills in this lovely studio flat in the 19th arrondissement. It’s contemporary, light and spacious and has a double bed, kitchen, bathroom with power shower, TV and internet access, and a balcony where you can enjoy morning coffee. A beautiful bargain for those who want their own space in Paris. Details homeaway.co.uk. Booking ref: 423020 (Métro: Porte des Lilas).
10 Hôtel du 7e Art from £92
The “seventh art” is the French term for cinema, so expect old film posters decorating the walls. The 15 bedrooms are charmingly oddball — some have a 1930s feel, exposed brickwork and yet more movie memorabilia — and the reception area is lovely in a rambling, overcrowded way. Timbered ceilings and a log fire add to the warmth of the place. Nice people, too. Breakfast is £7.10. For a peaceful coffee, head opposite to the hip cafés within Cours Rabelais. Details 20 Rue Saint-Paul, 4th; 00 33 1 44 54 85 00, paris-hotel-7art.com (Métro: Saint-Paul).
Left Bank
11 Hôtel de Nesle from £66
This Latin Quarter retreat is perfectly located for the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay and the boutiques of St Germain. It’s also a surprisingly affordable find in a smart district. The reception sets the scene with an Aladdin’s cave of antiquey bits and bobs — copper pans, old cookery books and bashed-about sofas.The 20 bedrooms include frescoes, wacky gilded mirrors, distressed paintwork, and faded rose toile-de-jouy fabrics. Some rooms share bathrooms. No breakfasts but on the corner is the arty Café Bar le Nesle. Details 7 Rue de Nesle 6th; 00 33 1 43 54 62 41, hoteldenesleparis.com (Métro: Odéon).
12 Janine Bed & Breakfast from £62
Find a home away from home in this blue-shuttered mews cottage tucked behind the busy Avenue Maine in Montparnasse. The hostess, Janine, is affable and full of useful tips and her ground-floor guest bedroom is decorated with oriental rugs and pale colours and has a small double, TV, bath and shower. A rustic kitchen is where guests rustle up DIY breakfasts, which are included in the price. Janine is something of a night bird but her delightful tabby, Shamash, will keep you company. Minimum two nights. Cash only. Details 00 33 1 43 27 19 43 (Métro: Gaîté).
13 Hôtel Eiffel Rive Gauche from £91
Hercule Poirot wouldn’t look out of place in this smart-looking establishment. An Art Deco charm permeates the plush reception, which has dramatic bronze and black striped wallpaper, heavy drapes, oriental rugs and cream walls. Bedrooms are basic but clean and the welcome is very warm. Some bedrooms overlook an interior Moroccan-style courtyard but because the hotel is located on a tranquil side street, you may prefer an exterior view. Wonderfully handy for the Eiffel Tower, the Trocadéro and the museums of the Hôtel des Invalides. Buffet breakfast is £10.60. Details 6 Rue du Gros-Caillou, 7th; 00 33 1 45 51 51 51, hotel-eiffel.com (Métro: École Militaire).
14 Hôtel Résidence Les Gobelins from £78
A calm, 32-bedroom hotel off Avenue des Gobelins. A homely environment — a relaxed lounge with comfortable wicker sofas overlooks a flower-filled and honeysuckle-perfumed patio, as does the airy breakfast room. Bedrooms are well sized, though furnishings are simple. Worth paying the higher rate for a larger double bed. Breakfast £7.50. Details 9 Rue des Gobelins, 7th; 00 33 1 47 07 26 90, hotelgobelins.com (Métro: Gobelins).
15 Oops! Hostal from £53
A central Latin Quarter hostel that has more in common with a smart design hotel than a backpackers’ dive. Push through the glass doors and into a spacious lobby with funky cowhide-effect walls and light installations. A large internet café offers free wi-fi and a small patio. Help yourself to Scrabble, Cluedo, Monopoly or Twister, then retreat to one of 12 air-conditioned double rooms (there are shared dormitories too) with jazzy wallpapers, pristine linen, pale oak floors and en suite shower rooms. Breakfast included. No age restrictions. Details 50 Avenue des Gobelins; 7th. 00 33 1 47 07 47 00, oops-paris.com (Métro: Gobelins).
16 Hôtel Saint-Paul Rive Gauche from £90
Book late to find bargain bedrooms at this charming 17th-century establishment. Spacious rooms feature wood-beamed ceilings, bold furnishings, large beds and power showers. (Quieter back rooms overlook the Sorbonne.) Friendly service includes a personalised greeting from Sputnik, the owners’ 15-year-old cat. Breakfast, served in the stone-vaulted basement, is a feast of buffet goodies, including proper croissants and melty Madeleines — perfect for that Proustian moment. Rue Monsieur le Prince snakes off Boulevard Saint-Michel, yet shares none of its traffic snarl. Two atmospheric restaurants — Chez Maître Paul and Polidor — offer affordable plats du jour. Breakfast is £11.48. Details 43 Rue Monsieur le Prince, 6th; 00 33 1 46 34 58 60, hotelsaintpaulparis.com (Métro: Odéon).
17 Hôtel Cluny Sorbonne from £69
A fabulous location with the Panthéon in one direction and the exquisite Place de la Sorbonne in the other. The hotel has 23 rooms, the best of which have great rooftop views over the area. The bright and spacious lobby is a bit misleading since some bedrooms are rather small, but they are clean and double-glazed, with comfortable beds and antiquey furniture. Also, the lift may challenge claustrophobics. Breakfast is £5.30. In the fountain-filled Place de la Sorbonne, two minutes away, you can find atmospheric places to eat such as L’Escritoire and Brasserie les Patios. Details 8 Rue Victor Cousin, 5th; 00 33 1 43 54 66 66, hotel-cluny.fr (Métro: Cluny La Sorbonne).
18 Hôtel 3 Collèges from £91
A smart cream corner frontage, right near the architectural biggies of Place du Panthéon. This hotel has 44 bright rooms with modern functional bathrooms. Room 24 is particularly sunny, with cheery orange drapes, a comfortable bed and a bathroom opening on to a tiny mock balcony. The sixth-floor rooms are the most spacious and feature large beds and wood-beamed ceilings. The owner, Jonathan, is full of helpful tips on tracking down good restaurants and bypassing museum queues. He offers two breakfasts — a cheap “express” (£4.40), or a slow buffet (£7.95) for those who want to people-watch through the big windows of the smart dining area. Details 16 Rue Cujas, 5th; 00 33 1 43 54 67 30, 3colleges.com (Métro: Cluny La Sorbonne).
19 Hôtel Familia from £85
Eric Gaucheron is the genial host of this smart-looking Haussmann-built hotel, located on the busy Rue des Écoles. Many of the 30 air-conditioned bedrooms come adorned with sepia frescoes of Parisian views (by the artist Gerald Pritchard), exposed old stone walls and balconies large enough to sit out on, which have great views on to the newly restored Cistercian Collège des Bernardins as well as Notre Dame. Room 42 is particularly charming, with a little balcony, oak furniture and pink toile de jouy fabrics. A quieter choice is No 44, overlooking a courtyard and with a romantic canopied bed. Breakfast is £5.30. There is a sister property, Hotel Minerve, at 13 Rue des Écoles, which has doubles from £94. Details 11 Rue des Écoles, 5th; 00 33 1 43 54 55 27, familiahotel.com (Métro: Jussieu).
20 B&B with views from £97
Stay in Odile’s large, welcoming apartment in the heart of the bustling 15th arrondissement. It’s on the ninth and tenth floors of a 1960s block, which doesn’t sound too glamorous until you catch sight of its large, outdoor, plant-filled terraces that offer magnificent views over the city. Sit here on a sunny morning and enjoy coffee with Odile’s home-baked croissants or cakes. You can even go to sleep with a view of the Eiffel Tower from the main guest room, which is decorated with oil paintings and an 18th-century Aubusson tapestry. This room also comes with a small private living room. There is another twin bedroom available. Details E-mail Alcôve & Agapes via the website (bed-and-breakfast-in-paris.com), quoting ref BB324, or ring between 10am and noon (00 33 1 44 85 06 05). (Métro: Félix Faure or Charles Michels).
More Paris, less cash
Breakfasts can often be cheaper if taken in a neighbouring café.
Last-minute online booking websites such as laterooms.com can uncover discounts of up to 70 per cent on more expensive hotels.
The Paris Sightseeing Pass gives access to more than 60 top attractions including museums, and users have priority access at busy periods. The pass includes a guide book plus Métro, bus and RER pass. A two-day pass costs € 89 (about £77) from parispass.com
Need to know
Getting there Eurostar (08432 186186, eurostar.com), operates 18 daily services from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord, with return fares from £69.
Reading Frommer’s Paris Free & Dirt Cheap (£12.99) Alastair Sawday’s Special Places to Stay, Paris (£9.99)
cuddly Toys Collectables
pootle, statuary