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An old Seattle garden comes to life with new color

April 12th, 2011

LIKE MANY other midcentury gardens in her Broadview neighborhood, Ann Ormsby’s property is large, shady and rhododendron-rich. But this energetic gardener wasn’t content with the overgrown shrubs and towering fir trees that typify so many Northwest gardens planted 60 years ago.

“I haven’t changed the pathways or the big trees; the structure was already in place,” says Ormsby. But over the years she’s thinned it out and updated with foliage plants in various colors and textures to play off the bark of the big trees. the effect is tranquil yet colorful, well-established yet fresh.

There’s nothing stodgy about this old garden; pathways are lined with inspired combinations like black mondo grass and white-blooming, ground-hugging dogwood (Cornus canadensis). the dinner-plate-sized brunette leaves of Ligularia ‘Britt Marie Crawford’ create drama around the backyard pond.

Local landscape architect Roberta Wightman designed the original garden in the 1950s, when it was published in Sunset magazine. the low-slung house, by William Bain, has an entire wall of glass visually linking indoors and out. Ormsby has made the most of the home’s transparency with terraces that extend out into the garden. She’s added art, water features and bold plantings you can see from inside the house.

Ormsby is a longtime docent, board member and part-time weeder at the nearby Dunn Gardens, where she’s been inspired by the work of curators Glenn Withey and Charles Price. her shady front garden with its woodland walks and leafy Japanese maples is reminiscent of the Dunn Gardens’ graciousness. the back garden is more open, with lawn, pond, terraces and a droughty area planted in non-thirsty catmint, thyme and euphorbia.

When Ormsby moved into the house in 1988 she was a weekend gardener who worked full time for the city of Seattle. But before too long she was replacing diseased azaleas with hardy fuchsias. And when she retired in 1999, she began introducing year-round color. she replaced ‘Unique’ rhododendrons with winter-blooming Azara microphylla. bright Monterey cypress and the big, soft leaves of Hydrangea aspera modernize the garden. “I really love chartreuse,” says Ormsby, who winds this light-reflecting color through the garden in broad ribbons of Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’).

Ormsby mostly takes care of the garden herself, even though its acre-plus is all cultivated except where it slips away into a wooded ravine at the back. she hires In Harmony Sustainable Landscapes to deal with what’s left of the lawn after she dug it up to plant more tomatoes.

Ormsby shares the harvest with a friend who helps in the vegetable garden. Raised beds cascade down a slope that used to be all salal. here they grow potatoes, chard, beans, broccoli, onions, asparagus, carrots and raspberries. Old-fashioned flowers grow happily down the hillside, too. up by the house, Ormsby keeps a little vegetable patch she calls her barometer, which she watches to determine when things are ripe below in the beds.

It takes courage to update a venerable old garden, and Ormsby seems to thoroughly enjoy the challenge. her sense of fun and inquiry shows in the piles of colorful glass spheres by the front door, the bright red umbrella on the terrace, the mix of new and old plants.

“I had a whole wagon of variegated plants once years ago at Wells,” she recalls, referring to Wells-Medina Nursery. Founder Ned Wells came up to her and asked, “You aren’t going to plant them together are you?”

And the answer occurred to her: “Why not?”

Valerie Easton is a Seattle freelance writer and author of “The New Low-Maintenance Garden.” Check out her blog at valeaston.com. Mike Siegel is a Seattle Times staff photographer.

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Tips for growing gorgeous clematis

May 31st, 2010

» DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY

It is important to choose the right clematis for the specific location and to take time planting it properly. This is not a project to rush. On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, I give this project a 6.

Vines are available in a variety of sizes, from 10-cm (4-inch) pots for $8.99 to five-gallon pots for $49.99. The most popular size is the two-gallon, which sells for between $19 and $29. What you are buying in the large size is a bigger, more established root system and a more mature plant that will flower more abundantly from the moment you get it.

Set aside at least 30 to 45 minutes. You need to dig a sizable hole, prepare the soil with bone meal and well-rotted compost and carefully detach the plant from its pot. You may need to add a trellis. Planting and pruning are the two key aspects, neither should be rushed.

You can damage stems while planting, which can lead to clematis wilt. You can pick a cultivar that is too vigorous. You can put the plant in the wrong location, where it gets too much sun at its base. You can kill your vine by sprinkling it with water in the heat of summer, which can lead to fungal disease.

A spade for digging, bone meal or 5-15-5 transplant solution to get the vine’s roots off to a healthy start, and trellising or some structural support (wall, tree or fence) for the vine to grow up against.

Most garden centres carry a good selection of clematis as well as bone meal and transplant solution, but you can also check out all the varieties available by going to the website of Canada’s top growers, Clearview Horticultural of Aldergove, at homeofclematis.com.

» SUGGESTED CULTIVARS

The evergreen clematis, C. armandii, is easily the most fragrant, but it blooms early in February-March.

Most people go for a summer flowering kind. Top performers include “Nelly Moser”, “Jackmanii”, “Etoile Violette”, “Ville de Lyon”, “Rouge Cardinal”, “Madame Julie Correvon”, “Dr. Ruppel”, “Barbara Jackman” and “Henryi.” The key to creating a long sequence of colour is to select cultivars that bloom in early spring, mostly varieties of C. alpina and macropetala, and ones that flowers in summer and fall, usually labelled as “B-type” or “C-type” clematis.

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