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February 22nd, 2011

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Fashion edge for Swarovski

December 11th, 2010

What do you think of when you think of Swarovski? Perhaps a quirky little crystal cat or a colourful swan figurine? or do you think of a high-fashion costume jewellery line, collaborations with the world’s best fashion designers and regular appearances in glossy magazines?

In the past, you might have chosen the former option. But now, the crystal giftware company has turned into something else – something truly fashionable – while continuing to celebrate its long history.

The maintenance of that mix of covetable heritage (Swarovski was founded in 1895) and cutting-edge newness is the mission statement of Swarovski’s creative director Nathalie Colin. The classically chic Frenchwoman visited Australia recently to launch both a new flagship store in Sydney and the 2011 jewellery and accessories collection, called Wings of Poetry.

“There has been a radical change in personality (of the company) over the past 10 years,” Colin tells me over coffee the morning after the glittering collection launch.

“Before that, figurines were the main part of the business; today jewellery is 80 per cent of the business, so it’s much more about fashion and accessories now. We offer accessibility but there is also a refinement, quality and craftsmanship to each piece that makes it special.”

Colin, who became Swarovski’s creative director in 2006, has helped to steer the company to its current position as an arbiter of fashionable, affordable accessories with a luxury feel. The company has a number of different divisions which all lend it a fashion cache that it may not previously have had.

Of course, Swarovski’s collaboration with fashion designers is not exactly new. The relationship dates back to the 1920s and 1930s, when Swarovski provided crystals and embellishments for rival designers Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli and, later, for Christian Dior.

But Swarovski is now collaborating with everyone from designers showing at London Fashion Week to Rihanna’s stage costume designers. It has also instigated the Atelier Swarovski, in which select designers are invited to create accessories using Swarovski crystals. so far, that designer rollcall has included Mark Fast, Prabal Gurung, Holly Fulton and Joseph Altuzarra, even famed architect Zaha Hadid.

Colin’s latest collection is a veritable treasure trove of nature – and animal-

inspired jewellery with a colour palette inspired by the pastel-hued gradations of Impressionist painting.

“I was inspired by the way the Impressionists placed colours next to each other, so there is a kind of mix or diffusion of colours in the eyes of the viewer,” Colin explains. “It’s very similar to a technique we use called Pointiage, where the placement of coloured stones next to each other creates a vibrant surface effect. It’s Monet mixed with a 1970s twist.”

That influence can be seen in pieces such as the multi-strand Glamour necklace, or a pair of crystal drop earrings in which yellow crystals merge into peachy pink and then sapphire green. elsewhere in the collection there are delightful bird, snail, bee and butterfly motifs alongside delicate flower and fruit designs (“I was thinking about springtime, going out for a walk, the idea of bucolic nature”, Colin says).

Colin’s background is an interesting one, having worked in the worlds of both fashion and marketing. After graduating from the Ecole Superieure de Commerce in Paris and the Fashion Institute of Technology in new York, she secured a job working alongside Marc Jacobs in his early days designing for Perry Ellis.

Later, she moved into brand consultancy and trend forecasting, working across the ready-to-wear fashion, jewellery and lingerie industries.

Since her appointment to Swarovski four years ago, the company has experienced record profits, with a turnover last year of ????.25 billion ($3 billion) and a presence in 120 countries.

Now, the company is branching into new areas. The Wings of Poetry collection includes Swarovski’s first eyewear designs and next year Swarovski will be looking to expand into swimwear, lingerie, sportswear and crystal lighting.

Colin attributes the company’s success to one basic factor: the endless and universal appeal and the versatility of crystal’s light-reflecting quality.

“Crystal comes to life with light,” she says. “It expresses gradation, light and shadow. It doesn’t matter if I am working on a very opulent showpiece or a very simple pendant for daywear; what interests me is the story that jewellery tells.”

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A ray of hope in downturn for these new home-based businesses

April 26th, 2010